CAKE!

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Cake, I love cake, rahhhlly I do.

I’m also picky about cake. That is to say; even shitty supermarket cake is still CAKE, but I swoon over GOOD cake. The kind of cake I grew up with, which was sweet but not cloying, dense but not heavy, and frosted with REAL buttercream. Made with copious amounts of butter.

For someone who likes to cook, and who is so picky about what makes a good cake, you’d think that I’d be baking cakes all of the time. And you’d be wrong. I bake a lousy cake. I blame a certain lack of patience, and the altitude. I was a much better baker at sea level, and try as sporadically as I do, I’ve had a tough time properly adapting recipes to 5,000 feet.

My cakes are so consistently bad that when I decided to bake my own birthday cake last summer, I ran out at the last minute and bought a back-up cake in case mine didn’t turn out. And mine didn’t turn out. The flaws with my cakes can apparently be attributed to over-mixing, so for my next cake I was going to be excessively attentive to how long I mixed the batter.

My regular readers know that I collect vintage cookbooks, and one of my recent acquisitions is a 1957 copy of Mile-High Cakes, put out by Colorado State University. Hey, rather than adapt a sea-level recipe to altitude, why not start with a recipe that was developed here in the first place? And so: let’s bake a cake!

Mile High Cakes, 1957
Mile High Cakes, 1957

I read the intro of the book, where the chemistry of ingredients is discussed. I grease and parchment-line my pans. I read through the recipe three times. I measure out all of my ingredients precisely. And then: I set up my kitchen timer, so I can time my mixing.

White Cake, Conventional Method
High-Altitude Recipe

Following instructions to a T, I mix that batter for far longer than I have mixed any batter ever before. A combined 12 minutes?! I cringe when I think about what all of this mixing is doing to my historically over-mixed batter. But I am determined to follow every instruction as written. Will it be dry? Crumbly? Will it tunnel? Fall? All of the above? I whip up a quick meringue frosting because I don’t want to waste perfectly good butter on this potential disaster.

High-Altitude White Cake
Cake. Cake that is real cake. (With apricot jam filling)

Over-mixed? Nope. It’s the best cake I’ve made yet. It turns out I’ve been UNDER-mixing my batter all this time. Thank you, ladies of the Home Economics Section, Colorado Agricultural Experiment Station. I could hug you. And/or bake you a cake.

9 Replies to “CAKE!”

  1. Ok, so I too bought this cake recipe book & have zero success. I did the yellow cake. Followed the instructions down to everything. It was dry & tasted like flour. I attempted to tweak it by reducing the flour by 1/2 cup & it sunk & didn’t bake.

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    1. Crystal, I’m so sorry that your cake didn’t turn out. I haven’t yet tried the yellow cake recipe in the booklet but it will be next on my list. If your location is “in between” altitudes, perhaps trying the next column in the chart would make some sort of an improvement? I’m anxious to give it a go now, maybe I’ll try tonight!

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  2. I tried it and this recipe is great, I live in the Morrison area at around 5600, 5800 ft and I used the 5,000 ft instructions. The cake holds together beautifully when cut, I love how it tastes, too, it’s not super sweet. I have failed so many times in Denver trying to make a scratch cake and I think I’ve finally found the recipe!

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  3. I made the white cake, and with just a few tweaking, it came out beautifully. I live in the Sangre de Cristo mountain range and have resigned the fact that I cannot bake here, until now. I understand my cakes will never be light and fluffy like the pictures show, but I am very happy my cakes are no longer PANCAKES lol. I used butter instead of shortening, and I baked at a lower temperature and kept an eye on it. It took a few tries but I finally achieved a cake. Good luck ladies, and keep trying.

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